The Urban Getaway
Driving time: 2.5 hours, rates begin at $280/night
From delish street bites (cheesesteaks, what else?) to chic cocktails served 60 stories up, Philadelphia is a bona fide food town. You’ll find plenty of great spots for sustenance as you explore artistic and culinary delights.
Stay Here: Immerse yourself in Philadelphia’s unique place in history with a stay at the Guild House, a 12-room luxury boutique hotel. You’ll feel nurtured, from the art of the daily turn-down service to impeccably designed suites you may want to re-create at home. Every room is named for suffragists, artists, abolitionists and more from around the turn of the 20th century. Located in the spirited Gayborhood area of downtown Philly, this National Historic Landmark is a welcoming retreat.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: After you’ve dropped your bags, refuel with lunch or a stuffed French toast latte at Sabrina’s Café (Art Museum), then stroll Museum Row, with its world-class art and science institutions. Notice the Rocky Balboa statue as you climb the stairs of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. (If you’re inspired to jog up the 72 steps, arms in the air, full-on tourist-style, go for it—it happens all the time.) The museum contains an astounding collection of masterpieces, from the 12th century to contemporary works. Architect Frank Gehry infused his genius into the recent renovation. Grab lunch at Balcony Café.
EVENING: The new Four Seasons Philadelphia at Comcast Center stands out among this city of skyscrapers. At 60 stories, it’s North America’s tallest hotel. Crowning it all is JG SKYHIGH, a swank spot for cocktails and bites—though the setting is heady, an upscale comfort menu of fried chicken, meatballs and a bacon cheeseburger welcomes you back down to earth. One floor below, Jean-Georges Philadelphia has prix fixe tasting menus for both vegetarians and meat-eaters for around $200 per person.
Day 2
MORNING: Nosh at Korshak Bagels, then start walking. Did you know Philly lays claim to more murals than any other U.S. city? It’s also home to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens, where artist Isaiah Zagar has constructed tunnels and grottos using found objects and Mexican folk art. Over the last decade, his mosaics were installed in vacant lots, alleys and warehouses, making formerly drab streets inspiring.
AFTERNOON: When it comes to Philly cheesesteaks, avoid the Geno’s vs. Pat’s debate and instead try one of our own favorites, Sonny’s Famous Steaks, where options include gluten-free buns and vegetarian sandwiches. Nearby is the Weitzman National Museum of American Jewish History, a Smithsonian affiliate that portrays the challenges and triumphs of Jewish immigrants. The African American Museum in Philadelphia depicts notable Black people and their roles in founding America.
EVENING: Stroll the oldest residential street in America, Elfreth’s Alley, then pop into Omoi Zakka Shop for whimsical Japanese desk supplies and gifts. Dinner is served at Zahav, a James Beard Award-winning Israeli eatery; if you become an instant addict of their famous pomegranate lamb shoulder, you can order some shipped to your home later via Goldbelly.
Day 3
MORNING: Philadelphia was a foodie destination long before that was in style, and the best place to sample the signature dishes is Reading Terminal Market. The former train station’s vendors sell baked goods and hot meals that you can enjoy on the spot. Try the cheesesteaks at Spataro’s (yes, you just had one for lunch yesterday, but when in Philly …). Next, walk through Centre Square and see City Hall, a fun place to people-watch. Shoppers will love the European fashion store Primark and artsy gift shop Verde.
AFTERNOON: The Barnes Foundation was created by Albert Barnes, who originally showcased his collection inside his suburban Philadelphia mansion. The collection moved to Philly’s Museum Row in 2012, and the art remains arranged without signs. The Barnes has the world’s largest holdings of Renoir and Cézanne, along with works by Picasso, Matisse, Van Gogh and Monet. March 5 brings a new multimedia exhibit, Sue Williamson & Lebohang Kganye: Tell Me What You Remember, a dialogue featuring two of South Africa’s top contemporary artists.
—Renee Sklarew
The Mountain Getaway
Driving time: 3 hours, rates begin at $260/night
Virginia’s romantic countryside in the Central Piedmont region features heritage cooking, a presidential mansion, shopping and a luxurious inn.
Stay Here: It’s no surprise that The Inn at Willow Grove has won top awards for hospitality. This elegant inn is surrounded by the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia’s rolling Central Piedmont region. Relax with a glass of Virginia wine, soothed by the gentle splash of a paddle wheel and twittering birds. The suites vary, from the elegance of the Carriage House to the pet-friendly Overlook suites. But each is anchored by an enormous bed that feels like a cloud. Many rooms have gas fireplaces, spa-like bathrooms and a private patio where you can savor complimentary coffee and pastries delivered to your room.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: Explore Gordonsville, a whistle-stop town with a collection of stylish boutiques. Start with a housemade confection at Krecek Kakes Bakery and Coffeeshop before indulging in retail therapy on Main Street—look for vintage remakes (like a burlap sack turned into a stylish jacket) at Folkling, chic fashions at Posh, jewelry at the Annie Gould Gallery and loungewear by Gillian Valentine, whose playful prints include sloths and corgi derrieres. Then get in touch with the town’s history. Gordonsville served as a crossroads during the Civil War, and after emancipation, enterprising Black cooks sold fried chicken to passengers through the train windows. The tradition of farm-fresh chicken lives on at Champion Ice House, where the food will leave you clucking for more, whether it’s Southern-fried wings or gravy-topped “Disco Fries.” Back at Willow Grove, relax by the pool, or enjoy a treatment at Mill House Spa.
EVENING: Dinner is served at the inn’s Vintage Restaurant & Pub, with a focus on contemporary American fare. Find a seat in the garden—on a clear night, this rural enclave has a rooftop of stars.
Day 2
MORNING: Head to James Madison’s Montpelier. As you drive up the winding road, you’ll notice the horse track where the annual Hunt Races are held. The Highlights of Montpelier Tour explains the life story of America’s fourth president and first lady Dolley Madison. Among the original furnishings, books and artifacts, you’ll hear about James Madison’s pivotal role in drafting the U.S. Constitution. New exhibits and outbuildings depict the lives of Montpelier’s enslaved residents. Afterward, take a stroll through the Annie duPont Formal Garden, which abounds with mid-Atlantic plants such as irises, peonies and tulips; the topiaries are worth a look, too.
AFTERNOON: Orange County is home to numerous wineries. Well Hung Vineyard in Gordonsville is a good place for lunch and a chance to taste viognier, the grape that put Virginia on the winemaking map. The most famous winery is Barboursville Vineyards, where Italian vintner Gianni Zonin began bottling Virginia wine in 1976. Sample six varietals for $15 at the Discovery Tasting Room, then hike to the Octagon building designed by Thomas Jefferson.
EVENING: Cookbook author and chef Edna Lewis grew up in Orange. The grande dame of country cooking remained proud of her roots and developed recipes in her family’s kitchen. Many Orange restaurants offer versions of her classic dishes. Spoon & Spindle serves Virginia ham with pimento cheese, and Lewis’ quail stuffed with grapes and wild rice. Grab a beer at Iron Pipe Alewerks next door, located in an old parachute factory.
Day 3
MORNING: The Market at Grelen is a destination garden shop and European-style plant nursery where the air is fragrant with blossoming trees and flowers. It’s surrounded by nature trails where you can take in the bucolic scenery. Check out the cafe—chef Lewis’ strawberry biscuit dessert is on the menu.
AFTERNOON: Before heading home, stroll through downtown Orange to see the stately homes. Historically minded types will love a visit to the train depot and visitors center in the town of Orange.
—R.S.
The Luxury Getaway
Driving time: 3 hours, rates begin at $260/night
In Oyster Country, your trip is all about the elegant, peaceful Tides Inn.
Stay Here: The star power of The Tides Inn comes from its breathtaking views of Carter’s Creek and the wonders associated with waterfront life. The inn celebrated its 75th anniversary last year by flinging open its newly polished doors after refurbishing the entire Irvington, Virginia, resort. The hotel has added lots of appealing amenities; your resort fee covers the kayaking, paddleboarding and bicycles. The new creek-side oyster bar overlooks the boardwalk, which was designed to protect the coastline from climate change. Rainy days are covered, too, with the Maker Space for artistic pursuits, Chef’s Kitchen cooking school, fitness center, spa and whiskey tasting.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: After you settle into your spacious nautical-themed room, walk to the beach for afternoon cocktails. The resort is famous for its “Lancaster Lemonade,” a vodka drink with limoncello. Go for a paddle, swim in the heated pool, or take a sunset wine cruise. Maybe all three.
EVENING: Enjoy the refined service at The Tides Inn’s elegant Chesapeake Restaurant and Terrace. With a panoramic view of the peaceful cove as your backdrop, order from the extensive wine list, and don’t miss the Rappahannock oysters baked with crab, bacon and garlic cream. Afterward, pick out a board game or test your bocce and croquet skills on the lawn.
Day 2
MORNING: The Tides Inn provides free bikes and helmets for a ride on the flat and quiet roads around the resort. Cycle 2.7 miles to Chesapeake Doughnut Co. in the hamlet of White Stone. The seasonal doughnuts arrive hot, and the breakfast sandwiches will fuel your busy day of exploring. Stop in Objects, Art and More to select a souvenir (we like the oyster shell necklaces and stone booze dispensers). Ride by the Historic Christ Church & Museum, an architectural masterpiece that continues to inspire nearly 300 years after it was built.
AFTERNOON: Drive to Main Street in Kilmarnock for hearty helpings of classic diner food at Car Wash Cafe. Poke around RAL Art Center, a juried gallery of coastal-inspired crafts, and Pearl Boutique for cozy linen wear. Northern Neck Popcorn Bag sells tasty seasoned popcorn, including dark chocolate caramel and Old Bay flavors. This parking lot is busy, but it’s worth the wait to see the 204-acre Hughlett Point Natural Area Preserve, a haven for wildlife seeking sustenance in the nontidal wetlands.
EVENING: Sample the quaffable wines (and pet the vineyard dogs) at Good Luck Cellars. The owner grows all the grapes needed to bottle her lineup of wines. For dinner, try Dredge in Irvington. The restaurant is beloved for locally sourced seafood, especially “Byrd’s Oyster Stew” and roasted oysters with chorizo.
Day 3
MORNING: Grab breakfast at The Local in Irvington. This charming bistro sells bagel sandwiches and organic coffee. Return to The Tides Inn to take the free ecology tour and learn how the resort’s oyster program is helping to restore Tidewater, Virginia’s central coastal region.
AFTERNOON: Before reality sinks in, sneak in one last meal of fresh seafood at the inn’s Fish Hawk Oyster Bar and watch the tide roll out. On your way home, visit Ditchley Cider Works to pick up housemade cider. The historic property was owned by the du Pont family and is now a working farm and orchard.
—R.S.
The Beach Getaway
Driving time: 4 hours, rates begin at $263/night
Soak up sun, sand and surf in Virginia Beach. The coastal city is home to a top-notch aquarium, an iconic hotel, craft breweries and 35 miles of beach—according to Guinness World Records, that’s the world’s longest stretch of pleasure beach. Emphasis on “pleasure.”
Stay Here: Set atop one of Virginia Beach’s highest hills overlooking the Atlantic, The Historic Cavalier Hotel & Beach Club reopened in 2018 after an $85 million restoration that took it down to the studs. Today it has 85 luxury guest rooms, an elegant portico overlooking the Atlantic, on-site distillery, spa, private beach club and popular restaurants. The property’s origins inspired the design, decor and a mini-museum that details the posh hotel’s historic past (it has hosted 10 presidents, plus stars like Frank Sinatra and Bette Davis).
Day 1
AFTERNOON: The main highway into Virginia Beach, I-264, ends just blocks before the ocean in the city’s ViBe Creative District—home to bakeries, indie coffee shops, a popular Saturday morning farmers market and more. Set your GPS for Java Surf Café & Espresso Bar and pick up “The Big Kahuna,” a fully stuffed breakfast burrito, or an “Avocado Cubano” sandwich. Check out the latest exhibits at nearby Virginia Museum of Contemporary Art, and don’t miss Read Books located within—co-owner Kristin Hildum is a master at stocking great reads. Or, craft your own surfboard or paddleboard at Make And Ride Surf Exchange. Schedule ahead, or skip the DIY crafting and pick from a selection of new and used boards to buy or rent.
EVENING: Browse around the Cavalier resort and its sister hotel across the street, the Marriott Resort Virginia Beach Oceanfront. Ride the elevator to Orion’s Roof for a before-dinner drink and take in the 360-degree views of Virginia Beach and the ships sailing toward the Chesapeake Bay. Dine at Becca on Virginia she-crab soup or truffled mushroom agnolotti, then choose from the many seafood and steak specialties. End the night with a cocktail at the Raleigh Room, where there’s often someone on the piano, or grab an Adirondack chair on the lawn and gaze up at the stars.
Day 2
MORNING: Pop into The Green Cat Juice Bar & Market for a smoothie bowl (acai is a favorite), housemade juices or avocado toast. Walk it off with a stroll to the 64th Street entrance of First Landing State Park, where neighborhood street parking is also generally available. This 2,888-acre park has over 18 miles of hiking trails that run through saltwater marshes, maritime forests and bald cypress swamps.
AFTERNOON: Grab a bite—the popular veggie burger, maybe, or a farm stand chop salad—at Graze Kitchen. This gem is tucked away on 67th street on the campus of Edgar Cayce’s Association for Research and Enlightenment (A.R.E.). Cayce, considered by some to be the father of holistic medicine, founded A.R.E. more than 80 years ago to help people lead healthier lives in body, mind and spirit. After lunch, walk the labyrinth and explore unique books, jewelry and more in the gift shop. If discovering tales of ocean rescue missions and surf culture is more your vibe, poke around the Virginia Beach Surf & Rescue Museum. Reopened in 2018 after an extensive renovation, this circa 1903 station of the United States Life-Saving Service (a precursor of the Coast Guard) is now a museum with galleries on local surfing legends, the art and science of surfboard design, and much more.
EVENING: Stroll down the boardwalk’s quieter northern end at sunset toward the towering Neptune statue for fantastic photos. From there, grab dinner at The Atlantic on Pacific, a favorite of locals and visitors alike for its oysters, ceviche, blue crab hush puppies, craft cocktails and more. Savor a Spectral Signature milk stout at Vibrant Shore Brewing Co., founded by a former CIA spy turned award-winning brewer.
Day 3
MORNING: Stop at Commune for a breakfast sandwich that raises the bar on all others—breakfast sausage with a sunny-side up egg and baby greens on a sourdough brioche with herb aioli. Founded by a local sustainable farmer, Commune’s breakfast and lunch menus feature organic seasonal fare.
AFTERNOON: Explore the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center to see more than 10,000 animals, including a giant Pacific octopus and chocolate chip sea stars, and discover why cuttlefish are the magicians of the sea. Outdoors, the enormous science-themed interactive exhibits include a cleverly designed slide that lets you play alongside North American river otters. The center is also home to Dolphin Watching boat tours and zip-lining in its adjacent Adventure Park. Stop by Prosperity Kitchen & Pantry on your way out of town for thick-crust pizza by the slice and cookies.
—Christine Koubek Flynn
The Classic Coastal Getaway
Driving time: 90 minutes, rates begin at $193/night
The Insta-ready vistas of Chesapeake Bay’s lush Eastern Shore are punctuated with charming townships brimming with spectacular dining that celebrates the bounty of the region, delightful boutiques, colorful history and rich cultural opportunities.
Stay Here: Nestled in the heart of picturesque St. Michaels, the boutique Wildset Hotel occupies a cluster of artfully refurbished 19th-century buildings. Each of its 34 rooms is unique, some offering soaking tubs, balconies and fireplaces, but all designed with a soothing modern aesthetic. Guests are treated to complimentary breakfasts featuring oven-fresh pastries and locally roasted Ceremony Coffee, snuggle-friendly firepits and s’mores kits, and access to bikes to explore the town and its scenic surroundings. Dine on-site at Ruse, an oyster bar and New American restaurant influenced by the shore’s iconic culinary history.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: Start by exploring your home base of St. Michaels, making sure to swing by the picturesque harbor. Pop into Iron Will & Woodworks for conversation-starting vintage finds, Ophiuroidea (known as “The O”) to hook into coastal-inspired gifts and apparel, and Olivins to score infused olive oils and vinegars. While peering across the water from the patio of The Crab Claw, relish freshly shucked oysters, deep-fried soft-shell crabs and tender bay scallops. Properly primed, spend a couple of hours at the sprawling waterfront campus of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, where you can watch shipwrights building and restoring wooden boats, ascend a 19th-century lighthouse, and walk through a re-creation of a crab-picking plant.
EVENING: Wet your whistle at St. Michaels Winery with a tasting of ebullient local varietals. Then indulge with an evening at Stars at the Inn at Perry Cabin, where chef Gregory James showcases Eastern Shore elegance with his modern-minded, three-course tasting menu powered by the day’s catch and local harvests.
Day 2
MORNING: Easton, only a 15-minute drive from St. Michaels, is a Rockwellian burg bursting with quaint charm. Begin the day with elevated continental fare at Hunters’ Tavern at Tidewater Inn, an elegant property rooted in the mid-20th century, before heading to Academy Art Museum, home to notable works by European and American masters, including American color-field painter Gene Davis and minimalist sculptor Anne Truitt.
AFTERNOON: Grab a lunch at Out of the Fire , where you’ll be treated to thoughtful vegetable-forward starters, creative sandwiches (think juniper smoked turkey complemented by brie, bacon and charred onion-cranberry jam) and artful pizzas. For dessert, zip over to Bonheur Pie & Ice Cream, a dainty sweetshop. Spend an hour taking a horse-powered, history-rich tour of the town with Tanglao Carriage Driving, then browse boutiques for memorable souvenirs—perhaps an antiquarian tome from Vintage Books and Fine Art, classic vinyl at Spin Groove Records and gourmet goodies from The Wardroom.
EVENING: Dine on elegant French-Viennese cuisine at Bas Rouge. Wind down your day trip at the Avalon Theatre, where you can catch an array of entertainment: genre-spanning concerts, stand-up comedy, interactive murder mystery parties and live opera screenings.
Day 3
MORNING: Barely 20 minutes from St. Michaels, slender Tilghman Island is a sleepy slice of Chesapeake idyll. First stop: Two If By Sea for all-indulgences a.m. favorites like crab-crowned eggs Benedict and a pork-tacular frittata studded with sausage, ham and bacon. At the Tilghman Watermen’s Museum , marvel at handcrafted models of fishing and crabbing boats.
AFTERNOON: Grab satisfying sandwiches for lunch at the Tilghman Island Country Store, a shop jam-packed with a little bit of something for everyone. Spend what time you have left on the water. Rent a kayak, water scooter or canoe at Tilghman Island Marina & Rentals, where you can also charter a fishing expedition or a waterway tour. If you have time on your way back to reality, savor the sunset by dining alfresco at The Tilghman Island Inn, which serves seasonally driven surf ’n’ turf amid radiant waterfront views. —Nevin Martell
This story appears in the March/April issue of Bethesda Magazine.
