Barrel and Crow
Holy mackerel. Chef Nick Palermo’s sautéed, crispy-skinned fish makes for one divine dish. Palermo, whose kitchen has made the new Barrel and Crow a destination dining spot, was pairing this un-fishy East Coast species of mackerel with a salsa of sweet corn, peppers and pickled ramps when I first had it. But the seasonal-minded toque is always looking to change things up, and at press time was serving it at lunch with spaghetti squash, bell peppers, cilantro, ginger confit and citrus sauce. The chef didn’t know if his supplier would have the fish come winter, but whatever the accompaniments or availability, the misunderstood mackerel has been blessed with positive PR, courtesy of Palermo.
Barrel and Crow, 4867 Cordell Ave., Bethesda; (240) 800-3253; www.barrelandcrow.com