Pizza Perfect | Page 4 of 13

Pizza Perfect

These 10 Bethesda-area pizzerias have captured our attention

| Published:
A Hot Mess pizza. Photo by Stacy Zarin Goldberg.


Frankly. . . Pizza!

Frank Linn is a madman. That’s the word he uses to describe his obsession with pizza, especially the dough. His customers are crazy, too—for those 11-inch pies. They’ve flocked to the 40-seat (plus 22 outside) Kensington pizzeria since Linn opened it in 2014, just as they had to the food truck of the same name he operated for two years. His pizza is Neapolitan-like in that the dough is made with only four ingredients—Caputo 00 (double-zero), an Italian brand of very finely milled bread flour; water; yeast; and salt—and comes out of the oak-fired oven with lots of leopard-spot charring. Linn puts cooked tomato sauce on his pizzas instead of the crushed, uncooked tomatoes usually found on Neapolitan pies, and rejects serving pies with soupy centers that require a fork and knife. “I want you to be able to pick up a slice and fold it,” he says.

We like the Hot Mess, named after a customer who came to the food truck years ago looking like one and wanting something with bacon and heat. Linn’s creation is a white pizza made with Berkshire pork bacon that he cures, smokes and sautés. He adds caramelized onions for sweetness and Gruyere for nuttiness, in addition to mozzarella and Romano cheese. Heat comes from jalapeños he roasts, peels, brines and slices. “It’s a hot mess because you’re supposed to suffer a little bit,” he says. We’re happy to.

Frankly…Pizza!, 10417 Armory Ave., Kensington; 301-832-1065;

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