Bethesda Magazine’s Favorite New Restaurants
More than 70 restaurants have opened in the Bethesda area in the last two years. Food critic David Hagedorn chooses his 10 favorites.
Herbes de Provence-crusted seared tuna with cassoulet, radishes and rosemary red wine reduction. Photo by Mike Morgan
I was a fan of Addie’s on Rockville Pike, which had an 18-year run from 1995 to 2013. That restaurant was the first in chef and restaurateur Jeff Black’s empire, which now includes six restaurants, two bars and a fish market. He clearly learned a great deal there about how to create and run inviting, high-quality establishments. That’s why it’s no surprise that the new Addie’s, which opened last August, is even better than the old one. From its high design, paying homage to Black’s grandmother Addie and his family’s Texas roots, to the well-crafted dinner and brunch menus, Addie’s, which seats 130 inside, is the personification of a stylish, modern-day watering hole. But with spring upon us, my thoughts turn to Addie’s 70-seat covered patio, a perfect perch for playing hooky from work and lolling over a lazy lunch.
Iced tea comes with an ornate iced tea spoon and a little porcelain tray that holds a small pitcher of simple syrup and lemon wedges—little details that Black’s restaurants get so right. Caesar salad is done as it should be: Whole leaves are each coated with dressing that has the proper amount of tang from Worcestershire sauce and lemon. Grated hard-boiled egg, lightly toasted croutons and an anchovy complete the presentation. The standout that’s really worth the trip to Addie’s, though, is the French dip sandwich of roasted Allen Brothers prime rib cooked medium rare, sliced ultrathin and stuffed between two halves of French bread slathered with horseradish cream. Dipping into the dark, rich beef jus adds a burst of umami to an already flavor-packed sandwich. Pro tip: Take half of the sandwich home and get the chocolate bombe for dessert—it’s a ball of chocolate mousse and toffee enrobed with chocolate glaze, topped with a shard of feuilletine (a thin, crunchy, crepelike cookie) and served à la mode.
12435 Park Potomac Ave., Potomac | 301-340-0081 | addiesrestaurant.com