Sum Good, Sum Not
China Garden offers up sometimes excellent Cantonese fare in Rockville
11333 Woodglen Drive, Rockville, 301-881-2800, chinagardenhg.com
OVERALL RATING: B-
FAVORITE DISHES: Dim sum items: congee rice porridge; pork and shrimp dumplings topped with fish roe; shrimp and garlic chive dumplings; pineapple buns; beef spareribs; and crab claw balls. Entrees: steamed cod, Cantonese style; kingdom whole giant shrimp; sauteed Szechuan green beans; and beef shank casserole.
PRICES: Appetizers: $3.75 to $7.75; Entrees: $13.75 to $39.95; Dim sum: $3.50 to $8.75.
LIBATIONS: China Garden serves standard-issue oolong or jasmine tea. Same for beers ($5 domestic, $6 imported), including Bud Light, Yuengling and Tsingtao; wine ($8 glass/$40 bottle), which is Woodbridge; and cocktails ($10 to $12), among them Sex on the Beach, Malibu Bay Breeze and Mai Tai.
SERVICE: The food comes out at lightning speed and there is an abundance of servers to accommodate you, but very few of them speak English well enough to answer questions about the menu.
David Hagedorn is the restaurant critic for Bethesda Magazine.