The entrance waiting area. Photo by Laura Chase De Formigny.

Commonwealth Indian

11610 Old Georgetown Road (Pike & Rose), North Bethesda; 240-833-3055; commonwealthindian.com.

Overall Rating: B+

Samosa chips. Photo by Laura Chase De Formigny.

FAVORITE DISHES: Samosa chips (a stack of pastry rounds); roti sang maas (minced chicken kebab with Israeli salad); lamb biryani; bhindi (okra) masala; saag gosht (spinach curry with chicken); tamarind margarita

PRICES: Appetizers: $8 to $15; entrées: $17 to $27; dessert: $9

LIBATIONS: The nine signature cocktails ($10 to $14)—such as the mojito (gin, lychee syrup, basil leaves) and the somras (bourbon, cardamom rose petal syrup, iced tea)—are generously portioned, well balanced and quite tasty. Eleven beers include some local brewers (DC Brau, Flying Dog) and one Indian selection, Taj Mahal. The wine list, about a 60/40 mix of Old World (France, Spain, Italy) and New World (U.S., New Zealand) offerings, features 18 reds ($40 to $300), 18 whites ($36 to $195) and five sparklers ($38 to $136). Wine by the glass (18 selections) is $8 to $14. To balance the bold flavors of the dishes at Commonwealth, consider one of the nonalcoholic yogurt-based lassi drinks.

SERVICE: Very accommodating and pleasant, but occasionally forgetful.

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David Hagedorn is the restaurant critic for Bethesda Magazine.