The dining room at Q by Peter Chang seats 160. Photo by Michael Ventura
Qi jian means flagship. Merriam-Webster defines that as the ship in a fleet that carries the commanding admiral or the best and most important thing an organization owns or produces. In Chang’s case, it’s both. Q also stands for quality, says the chef. His goal at Q is to present a curated menu of strictly authentic, refined, home-style dishes in a fine-dining setting that includes a proper cocktail bar and lounge area, chic furnishings, servers in uniforms imported from China, a wine list selected by Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre, and a private dining room where he can host chef collaborations and tasting menu dinners that highlight different regions of China.
Chang, 54, began to make a name for himself in the United States after he left the Chinese Embassy in 2003, essentially defecting, and started working at restaurants in Northern Virginia, including China Star and China Gourmet in Fairfax and TemptAsian in Alexandria. But as soon as food groupies and critics would begin spreading the word about Chang’s talent, he would disappear. Myths soon grew up around Chang, that he shunned the spotlight or was a demanding employee. In truth, fear of reprisal by the Chinese government and having a light shined on his legal status were overriding concerns.
The chef’s wanderings took him to Atlanta, Knoxville, Tennessee, and Charlottesville, Virginia, where, in 2011, he teamed up with Gen Lee, also a restaurateur, and the two began building an empire that includes nine eateries throughout Virginia and one in Rockville. The formula for most of these places was to do as little to them as possible, open them quickly and offer a menu with upwards of 80 items, making concessions to American tastes by toning down the trademark spiciness of Sichuan food, subbing one protein for another if asked, and offering mundane items such as lo mein, vegetable spring rolls and General Tso’s chicken.
When a friend told Chang about the space in Bethesda at 4500 East West Highway, just off Wisconsin Avenue, he took one look and loved it, Lydia says. “He knows right away if he wants a space or not. This was a good deal in a good location very close to D.C. He would never have been able to have a space this big in Washington for the price.” He signed a 10-year lease in July 2016.
Rather than open another version of Peter Chang Rockville, he’d offer authentic dishes that Americans haven’t seen in restaurants before.
