No need to check Webster’s Dictionary: “Scion” (pronounced sy-on) means a “shoot or bud of a plant; a descendant; offspring.”
In this case, the offspring are Joanne and Julie Liu, whose parents, Henry and Jenny Liu, have owned Jenny’s Asian Fusion restaurant in Southwest Washington for the past 30 years. The two siblings grew up in the restaurant, often spending more time there than at home, according to Joanne Liu.
Now the sisters are building their own restaurant family. Scion, their new Silver Spring restaurant, is their third; they opened their first Scion in Dupont Circle in 2009, as well as Crios Modern Mexican next door in 2012. And there’s a fourth restaurant in the works: Nainai’s Noodle and Dumpling Bar will open next door to the Silver Spring Scion this fall. The fast-casual restaurant will serve noodle soups, stir-fries and dumplings.
The two Scion restaurants have mostly the same menus, which focus on modern American cuisine at reasonable prices, plus a terrific craft beer list, with everything from New Jersey’s Flying Fish Exit 4 to Colorado’s Oskar Blues Mama’s Little Yella Pils.
As for the food, I’d put Silver Spring’s Scion in the vast category of area restaurants that are neither dreadful nor memorable, offering some hits and misses and a bunch of dishes that are just OK.
Hits: First courses provide the high points, with innovative twists on familiar standards. The edamame hummus—made with puréed soybeans and a small amount of the traditional chickpeas—elevates the common dip to special status with its pretty, pale-green hue, somewhat nutty flavor and smooth, creamy consistency. And the ubiquitous Caesar salad gets a winning mini-makeover with crispy wonton strips and a spicy wasabi dressing that delivers just the right punch.
Fried pickles are showing up on menus with increasing frequency these days, and Scion’s version, made with ridged dill chips rather than spears (my preference), is among the better ones I’ve tried. Lightly coated in seasoned flour and expertly fried, they’re served with a ranch dip, offering potato chips some stiff competition.
Fried-food fans should also try the blue cheese croquettes—two crunchy patties encasing a mixture of potatoes, chickpeas, corn, sun-dried tomatoes and the cheese, with a chipotle aioli sauce providing a zesty kick.
In fact, kudos to the kitchen for not being shy with the hot stuff. The spicy yogurt chicken entrée—reminiscent of the Lebanese dish, fatteh bel djaj, with its fried pita and chunks of tender chicken immersed in yogurt sauce—is real comfort food and one of the more successful main courses.
Misses: As for other entrées, just say no to the salty crabcakes, which are overcooked patties with sadly dried-out seafood. The herb ricotta gnocchi with duck ragu was too complicated an idea for this kitchen; the gnocchi seemed strangely spiced, the “crispy” spinach wilted too soon, and the duck ragu tasted like pot pie filling.
Don’t waste calories on any of the menu’s three desserts. The coconut key lime pie sported an undercooked crust, filling that was tasteless and pasty, and a superfluous sprinkling of toasted coconut. The strawberry shortcake, made with a tough, scone-like cake born of a seemingly overworked batter, came heavily garnished with an oddly thick sauce, almost the consistency of apple butter. And finally, the chocolate lava cake’s rubbery texture won’t tempt even the most committed chocoholics.
Just OK: In the category of good-with-an-alcoholic drink, but otherwise no culinary masterpiece, I’d put the beer-battered rock shrimp appetizer—airy, fried little puffs made with Flying Dog Underdog Lager, though the beer flavor seemed MIA. The same can be said for the crab spinach dip, which didn’t have much crab flavor.
One so-so twist on the traditional was the lobster Reuben. Made with frozen tail and claw meat, it’s a lighter version than the original piled with corned beef or pastrami, but I’m not sure this is the best use of the tender seafood—it’s overwhelmed by the sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. And the rib-eye steak was just an average piece of meat; if you’re going for beef in Silver Spring, head for Ray’s the Classics.
Located on the retail level of a new high-rise apartment building near the corner of East West Highway and Blair Road, Scion has a spare and modern decor, done in orange and brown, and the welcoming bar area seems to attract an after-work crowd. I had the same waitress both times I ate there, and she was above-average in terms of efficiency and pleasantness.
A word about the acoustics: Someone on Open Table described Scion as a “nice little echo chamber” and suggested that the restaurant “put down some rugs or something!”
I agree.
Like the Liu sisters’ other restaurants, Silver Spring’s Scion aims to be a neighborhood eatery, and the density of apartment and office buildings on that stretch of East West Highway—and the lack of plentiful food options—makes it a perfect location for the concept.
So if you live or work there, Scion is a convenient addition to the neighborhood. Otherwise, it’s probably not worth the drive.
ScIon
1200 East West Highway, Silver Spring, 301-585-8878, scionrestaurant.com
HOURS
Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday and 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday. The restaurant was scheduled to start serving Saturday and Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. in August.
BEER & WINE
Very impressive craft beer menu, with a dozen selections on tap and more than 75 bottles. About a half-dozen glasses of international red and white wines; bottles mostly in the $40 to $60 range. Good Happy Hour specials, 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
RESERVATIONS
Available on Open Table
PRICES
Lunch sandwiches and entrées, $9.95 to $19.95; dinner entrées, $13.95 to $24.95. Kids’ menu, $5.95 to $7.50.
FAVORITE DISHES
Edamame hummus, wasabi Caesar salad, blue cheese croquettes, spicy yogurt chicken
GOOD PLACE TO GO FOR
Beer and appetizers
PARKING
Street and garage parking
Carole Sugarman is the magazine’s food editor.