This column is called “First Taste,” but I actually went back for a second taste at the Majestic Bar & Grille.
My initial dinner was surprisingly ho-hum, and I wanted to give the new restaurant that opened in the former Gaffney’s space another try.
Before the place opened, owner Stefan Lalos promised that the Majestic would be “like no place you’ve ever seen”—a gastro pub serving good food, not bar food. (See blog posts January 6 and February 29, 2012).
And certainly, the menu is more varied and upscale than the usual bar grub.
But that may be the problem—the kitchen is doing more than it can handle.
From Greek lamb to Southern shrimp and grits, Chesapeake wings, black truffle poutine, Bayou macaroni and cheese, fattoush salad and wasabi tuna, it’s a virtual international melting pot.
What comes out of the pots (and pans and refrigerator), however, is mostly average fare.
The three salads I tried had flickers of brightness, but none of them particularly meshed; the braised pork belly marinated in red bean paste and applesauce, then grilled and served over kimchi salad, was a complicated idea with not enough flavor to show for it; the bison burger seemed overly greasy, perhaps from its grilled onions; and the Ramen Bowl Special tasted like doctored-up packaged instant ramen, albeit with some fresh vegetables and a few shrimp thrown in.
That said, Majestic makes terrific hand-cut French fries, fried until brown and crisp, and the duck sliders have a decided zip, even better eaten open-faced (the rolls are kind of bready).
Duck sliders, French fries and successful banana-chocolate bread pudding: For those, I’d come back for a third taste.
7141 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda, 301-312-6043. www.themajesticbethesda.com
