When it comes to food, messing with tradition is not always a good thing (think Chocolate Cheerios, jalapeno bagels).
But Panas Gourmet Empanadas, which opened a couple of weeks ago on Elm Street in Bethesda, is an exception. There, chicken pesto empanadas really do work.
So does the place. This is the second location for Federico Garcia-Lopez, who opened a Panas last year in Dupont Circle in the District. The décor is a cross between eco-chic and a frozen yogurt shop—a grass-like carpet hangs on one wall, with a row of flower vases in front of it, white sails swoop from the ceiling, and orange chairs provide seating for those who want to eat in.
The menu, which will require some studying the first time around, features meat, veggie and seafood empanadas, available by the piece or in combos. And they’re a bargain: For $7, for example, you get any three empanadas, a choice of two dipping sauces and a bag of baked plantain chips. (Thin, crisp and slightly bigger than a quarter, I’d eat those plantain chips any day over the mainstay made with potatoes.)
There are 14 different empanada fillings, and while I’ve worked my way through only five of them, my favorites so far are the chipotle steak (shredded sirloin steak, carrots and onions with chipotle sauce), chicken pesto (grilled chicken with pesto sauce, fresh tomatoes and onions) and samba shrimp (shrimp, shredded coconut, cilantro, onions, red and green peppers). They all have bold flavors, with enough filling to taste the ingredients. And they’re baked, not fried (making it easier to eat more, of course). As for the sauces, I’m partial to the aji—a sun-colored dip made with yellow pepper, mayo and spices that is both creamy and spicy.
The menu also includes salads; side dishes, such as ceviche and chorizo; and cholados, a dessert made with shaved ice and fruit.
Panas Gourmet Empanadas, 4731 Elm St. 301-657-7371. www.panasgourmet.com
