In my February 24 blog, I panned my first visit to Bubby’s, the second of two New York-style delis to open in Bethesda (4866 Cordell Ave.) over the course of a few months. But since then, a new chef has taken over, and things are definitely looking up. Among the pleasant surprises at a return visit was a lean, top-notch corned beef sandwich on thick rye. And last night, I did a carryout dinner from Bubby’s for Passover, due to a kitchen renovation. The earlier lackluster chicken soup was greatly improved, and the matzo ball managed to be both huge and light and fluffy. No hockey pucks here. The brisket came with a boatload of watery sauce, but the meat was fork-tender. And the side dishes—potato kugel, tzimmes and creamed spinach—were as good as those at any homemade seder I’ve attended. Let’s just say this was one easy way to host Passover. Come to think of it, next year, even when my kitchen is finished…
Bubby’s Aces Passover Dinner
The Bethesda deli shows improvement.
