Bethesda’s new American Tap Room at 7278 Woodmont Ave. is a flashy place alright—backlit menus, cool double-decker iced tea decanters, a neon American flag on the side of the building, gas-fired urns on the top of the building. But after one lunch there, I’d say it’s a lot of show and not much substance.
The Tap Room Steak Salad, designated as a ‘signature’ item, should be a star. Yet its sliced beef was flabby and flavor-zapped, particularly surprising for meat described as marinated and grilled. The blackened fish sandwich with Cajun seasoning was similarly short on pizzazz. The fried zucchini appetizer showed glimmers of culinary hope, but its Greek yogurt and dill sauce was blah; ditto for the salad dressing and the remoulade sauce for the sandwich. For dessert, the banana bread pudding was a Gerber-like mush that my 21-month-old niece would have loved.
I hate to be a snob, but this place—operated by Thompson Hospitality, owners of the Austin Grill it replaced—seems like bland chain food personified. Anybody disagree?
