Lord Leonard Calvert signed a treaty with the indigenous Yaocomaco people, and the settlement grew to more than 500. For 60 years the settlement prospered, then was abandoned over the course of 260 years. It was reclaimed by the elements and concealed beneath fields of wheat, corn and tobacco. Then, in 1967, Dr. Lois Green Carr, an internationally recognized Colonial historian, began researching the area. Excavations, which continue today, revealed the foundations of a thriving place as well as artifacts ranging from buttons to lead coffins.
Today, visitors can stroll the 850 acres controlled by the Historic St. Mary’s City Commission and see nearly two dozen partially or totally reconstructed buildings. The first Catholic church in English North America, built in 1667, was recently rebuilt on its original foundation. The grounds also include the St. John’s Site Museum, with some of the 5,000 artifacts unearthed there.
Nearby, life on a Colonial tobacco plantation is demonstrated by interpreters wearing historically correct costumes. Special events in the fall include a reenactment of a Colonial militia muster on Oct. 16, with students of 17th-century history practicing their military skills, just as every able-bodied man in Colonial Maryland was required to do.
On Sept. 11, Woodland Indian Discovery Day, descendants of the Yaocomaco people will demonstrate tribal culture at the Woodland Indian Village that is part of the historic city. The Tayac Territory Dancers will perform and teach visitors their dances.
St. Mary’s College sits on 361 acres adjoining the historic district. Even if you aren’t drawn by any special events, the college is worth a visit. In the fall, the leafy campus facing the water is ablaze with color in a variety of trees, including oak, maple, elm and birch. Just above the college boathouse is a hill with a wooden archway that frames the water and the wooded shore. One of the most beautiful spots in the county, it’s a favorite setting for outdoor weddings.
St. Mary’s students can borrow a variety of boats with their library cards. Those not fortunate enough to be students can rent kayaks or canoes from nearby vendors or charter a larger boat for sightseeing or fishing.
Other attractions include biking trails, walking tours of Leonardtown and other historic spots, including a lighthouse said to be haunted by the ghosts of Confederate soldiers once held prisoner there. But, in truth, the most appealing aspect of St. Mary’s is its natural beauty. Relaxing on or near the water, taking the time to do nothing but stare at the scenery—that, for me, is the county’s starring attraction.
Before my most recent trip to St. Mary’s, I checked out the Brome-Howard Inn at www.TripAdvisor.com and found only two reviews. One, however, exactly summed up my sentiments about the area.
“I’m kind of surprised there aren’t more glowing reviews of this place,” the visitor wrote, “but I guess St. Mary’s City isn’t really a flashy hotspot. Nevertheless, it should be.”
Planning a Trip to St. Mary’s
Getting There
From the Beltway, merge onto Route 5 south via exit 7A toward Waldorf. Merge onto US-301, and after 2.8 miles, turn left to rejoin Route 5 south/Leonardtown Road. An alternate route: Route 4 south off the Beltway.
Where to Stay
Woodlawn (16040 Woodlawn Lane, Ridge; 301-872-0555; www.woodlawn-farm.com), a 180-acre waterfront estate, offers a pair of two-room luxury suites in the 18th-century manor house with access to the entire house (owners live off-property). Five cottages also are available. Rates: $140-$260 a night, breakfast and kayaks included.
The Brome-Howard Inn (18281 Rosecroft Road, St. Mary’s City; 301-866-0656; www.bromehowardinn.com) is a meticulously maintained property on a broad section of the St. Mary’s River. Rates: $125 a night during the week; $145-$180 on weekends.
Camp Merryelande (15914 Camp Merryelande Road, St. George Island; 301-994-1722; www.campmd.com). A driver will take you the short distance from your car to a modern tent on a sandy beach. Outfitted with bed-height air mattresses, clean linens and a view of the water, the “concierge camping” tents for four are $110 per night; larger tents are also available.
Where to Eat
The Brome-Howard Inn (18281 Rosecroft Road, St. Mary’s City; 301-866-0656; www.bromehowardinn.com), an 1840s farmhouse along the St. Mary’s River, offers fine dining in a romantic setting. Gourmet fare includes seafood, lamb, wild game and vegetarian options. Dinner entrées: $20-$28.
Café Des Artists (41655 Fenwick St., Leonardtown; 301-997-0500; www.cafedesartistes.ws). Chef Loic Francois Jaffres serves French and American fare at this bistro-style restaurant in the center of Leonardtown. Entrées: $20-$29.
Island Bar and Grill (formerly Evans Seafood; 16680 Piney Point Road, St. George Island; 301-994-9944) has great water views and specialties such as crab cakes, stuffed shrimp and rockfish. Lunch entrées (weekends only): $8-$15. Dinner daily: $10-$36. Children’s menu: $5.
Courtney’s Restaurant (48290 Wynne Road, Ridge; 301-872-4403), located in a cinderblock building along the water, is a dive with a certain charm. Guys who caught the fish that morning become waiters in the afternoon. At lunch, sandwiches and fried seafood platters are under $10. Dinner: $15.95-$18.95.
Bear Creek (2130 Point Lookout Road, Callaway; 301-994-1030) features an open-pit barbecue, with outdoor and indoor dining. Entrées: $7.95-$20.
If you want down-home cooking among the locals, be on the lookout for signs about church dinners and fundraisers for clubs and firehouses.
Boat Rentals
Rowboats, canoes and small motorboats are for rent at Point Lookout State Park (Route 5, Scotland; 301-872-4342). McIntosh Outfitters in Leonardtown (240-577-3971) will deliver kayaks anywhere in the county, as will BluHaven Piers in Ridge (301-872-5838; www.bluhavenpiers.com). Kayaks and rubber dinghies are available at Camp Merryelande on St. George Island, about 20 minutes from St. Mary’s campus. Kayak lessons and guided tours are offered by River Riders in Hollywood (301-373-9775; www.greenwellfoundation.org).
Charters: Dozens of charter boats, available for fishing and, in some cases, sightseeing, are listed at www.visitstmarysmd.com. Smith Island Cruises (410-425-2771; www.smithislandcruises.com) sails the bay from Point Lookout State Park and Crisfield through Oct. 10. Tours are $25-$30, half price for children 3-11. Groups of 20 or more can charter The Dee of St. Mary’s (301-994-2245; www.skipjacktours.com), one of the last working skipjacks in the world, and pull up lobsters and crabs while sightseeing. Those sailing to the county will find more than two dozen marinas; there are also more than two dozen public landing piers and ramps.
Fishing: Fishermen pursue at least seven species of fish in September. From October to early November, they go after striped bass, bluefish and weakfish. Mid-November through December is trophy striped bass season.
Amish Goods
Look for signs for Amish farms selling a variety of goods on Thompson Corner Road, Charlotte Hall (Route 236, off Route 5). About a dozen Amish farm stands operate Monday through Saturday, weather permitting, at 37600 New Market Turner Road, Charlotte Hall. Locust Grove Dry Goods (9830 N. Ryceville Road, Mechanicsville) sells eggs, butter, cheese, jam and essentials of Amish life, such as kerosene lanterns.
Other Activities
St. Mary’s City has a history museum, St. John’s Site, and a tobacco plantation operating as it did in the 17th century. They’re open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday through Nov. 28. Best time to visit is during special events listed at www.stmaryscity.org. For other events and more places to stay, eat and visit, go to www.visitstmarysmd.com. For events open to the public at St. Mary’s College, visit www.smcm.edu.
Cindy Loose previously was a travel writer for The Washington Post. She lives in Bethesda.
