Like its namesake, Redwood sets high expectations. To begin with, the space is dramatic and huge; the décor sleek and unique. The chairs are made from recycled seat belts, an illuminated Lucite deer head is mounted above the fireplace, the bar wall is covered with poplar bark, and reclaimed redwood—salvaged from olive oil casks—accents the 200-seat dining room and lounge. More than $2 million was spent on this designer treehouse.
The chef ’s résumé is likewise impressive. Trained at the California Culinary Academy, 31-year-old Andrew Kitko has worked at such well-known spots as Restaurant Gary Danko and Aqua in San Francisco, and Café Boulud in Manhattan. His menu, short and chic, is an environmentally correct selection of seasonal, organic and, when possible, locally grown choices. And the food certainly looks lovely; an herb sauce outlines one plate in vivid green stripes; on another, a whole striped bass sits upright in a u-shaped stance, looking as though it had swum into position.
Something very promising has taken root on Bethesda Lane—but it was still a seedling when I ate there. Among the appetizers, main courses and desserts I tried, there were more misses than hits. That potted Pennsylvania rabbit was pulverized into a dull spread that could have been anything.
Those baked cherrystone clams were filled with a bready stuffing, missing any hint of the promised Old Bay and Parmesan.
The Amish chicken lacked crisp or flavorful skin; the Whole Foods bird in my fridge was a much better rotisserie rendition.
The overcooked 16-ounce New York strip steak—listed as a shareable entree “for the table”—was overpriced ($48) for its size and quality. The pork loin would have been acceptably tough coming from a home kitchen, but not for $25 here.
And dessert? Goat cheese in a frozen soufflé really didn’t work forme; I’ve had better store-bought cookies than these house-made offerings; the butterscotch pudding needed an injection of butterscotch; and the peach cake was nothing but a pretty face.
But here’s the thing. Redwood misses the forest for the trees. The side dishes and garnishes are the restaurant’s bright lights. The grits were creamy and cheesy, with just enough texture; the bacon, macaroni and cheese gratin could become a family staple; and the hand-cut fries were well-salted and addictively crisp.
Sometimes the accompaniments Help make the dish. The dressed watercress and pickled figs added acidity to the rich chicken liver mousse appetizer; eaten together, the parts made a terrific whole. Braised greens and roasted plums, respectively, gave a slightly bitter and sweet edge to the Manchester Farms quail—the best entree I tried.
Redwood is the latest California-inspired project of Eli Hengst and Jared Rager, who also own Sonoma Restaurant And Wine Bar on Capitol Hill, and who recently sold their other restaurant, Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar in Georgetown. Attention has been paid to the wine program at Redwood, too, and it shows. The list features a number of unfamiliar West Coast bottles, and the sommelier—Brian Cook, formerly of Wolfgang Puck’s The Source—is a great resource. (Seek him out, lest you get a pricey recommendation from the waiter, as we did one night.)
Hopefully, with age, the kitchen will get its cooking times down and the centerpiece foods will mature into dishes as interesting as the sidekicks. With all that Redwood has going for it, it shouldn’t be such a tall order.
Highlights of Redwood Restaurant & Bar
7121 Bethesda Lane, Bethesda
301-656-5515
www.redwoodbethesda.com
Open
Breakfast, Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 10 a.m.
Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner, Monday through Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Brunch, Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Lounge menu served Monday through Saturday, available one hour after the dining room closes.
Prices
Breakfast and brunch entrees $8 to $14; lunch entrees $9 to $25; dinner entrees $14 to $48.
Reservations
Strongly recommended, especially for dinner on the weekends.
Wine List
Out-of-the-ordinary selection of West Coast and New World producers, with a list featuring about 125 bottles, and 16 wines by the glass. Seasonal beer list includes eight Mid-Atlantic drafts and two dozen microbrews by the bottle.
Favorite Dishes
Amish chicken liver mousse, mussels (appetizer); Manchester Farms quail (entree).
Favorite Desserts
Haven’t found one yet.
Good Place to Go For
Interesting wine, a place to see and be seen.
Parking/Getting There
Public lots, street parking. Bethesda Metro.
Carole Sugarman is a former food writer for The Washington Post.
